For the Spring Summer 2023 Miu Miu show at Auguste Perret’s Palais d’Iena in Paris, AMO collaborates with Chinese artist Shuang Li to create an immersive environment inspired by undersea infrastructure.
Black curtains wrap the perimeter of the palace lobby, and a uniform black rubber surface covers the floor, creating a dark stage illuminated by screens. A continuous tubular bench with fluorescent green rings snakes through the space like undersea cables laid on the ocean floor. Metal cages frame the columns and the walls, adding to the submarine atmosphere while emphasizing the monumental geometry of the hypostyle hall.
Models descend the grand staircase and emerge through a large transparent screen displaying Shuang Li’s videos. Other transparent screens are placed throughout the show space, acting as a digital veil that reveals glimpses of the palace’s architecture. The digital blends with the material as a reference to the physical dimension of today’s digital communication in a show that introduces a new relationship between guests, fashion and architecture.
The physical and virtual spaces of the Miu Miu show are punctuated with works by the artist Meriem Bennani, whose body of work explores intimate relationships mediated through the camera. Here, that idea is echoed and overlapped with another interrelation, of women and fashion. Conceived alongside the collection, Bennani commands control of the Miu Miu live stream via a series of filmic artistic interventions starring her own mother. These fantasy sequences are mixed real-time into the broadcast of the show to blur lines between virtual and real.
Underscoring these ideas, the interior of the Palais d’Iena is interrupted rather than transformed. Its architecture remains, a runway devised by AMO snaking through the centre, the audience balanced on Eames office chairs as an echo of the Palais’ continuing function as place of work. In the Palais, Bennani installs binocular-shaped screens to cut through the space, reforming and re-editing the physical experience of the show and projecting her films into real life. As with the clothing of the collection, these filmic cuts create a new work - editing reality, altering perceptions.
Fusing physical experience with digital, the staging of the Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2021 show both addresses the unique demands of our time and the fundamental needs of the medium of the fashion show.
The show decor, realised by AMO, is an elliptical stadium, referencing the worlds of sports: as athletes act out their movements for an audience, they transform these spaces not only into a palace of sports, but an arena of observation. This is inherently tied with the experience of the runway show: in both, a group of people commune to not only bear witness but, in their presence, play a part in a collective moment.
FW 2019 MiuMiu
For the FW 2019 MiuMiu show, AMO translates the vibrant work of Sharna Osborne into a three-dimensional collage that explores the power of images through different media. A curated selection of the photographer’s personal material provides an intimate angle on femininity that resonates with this year’s collection.
The monumental enfilade of the Salle Hypostyle is populated with a jumbled array of images. Giant prints, short video clips, old TVs and LED-screens produce a non-linear visual overload. The installation consists of an arrangement of frames, supports and structures that shape a chaotic ensemble of narratives.
Guests informally blend in the space, along the model path that unfolds playfully trough the hall. The catwalk is composed of a series of incidents that confront fashion and image in a vigorous dialogue.
A project with AMO
Photography by Agostino Osio and Alberto Moncada